It's no ugly duckling, but the Swan could do with perking up its dishes – and sticking to its menu
Southrop, Lechlade, Gloucestershire (01367 850 205). Meal for two, including wine and service, £110
I went to the Swan at Southrop following the luscious promise of one item on the online menu. From this I can firmly say: never invest all your dining happiness in a single plate of food. No good can come from it. Mind you, that one dish did sound like a corker. It was a whole vacherin cheese, baked in the oven and served – for two – with roasted garlic and Melba toast.